Indian duo dies on Everest as record breaker warns of overcrowding

Two Indian climbers have died on Mount Everest during a record-breaking period of ascents via Nepal's southern route, as experts warn of overcrowding on the world's highest peak.

"They fell ill while descending at high altitude. We are working out how to retrieve the bodies," Nivesh Karki, director at Pioneer Adventures, told AFP.

He named them as Sandeep Are, who he said summited on May 20, and Arun Kumar Tiwari, who reached the peak on May 21.

Nepal is home to eight of the world's 10 highest peaks and welcomes hundreds of adventurers each spring.

At least five climbers have died during this Everest season, including the two Indians and three Nepalis. A US and a Czech climber died on Mount Makalu earlier this month.

Nepali climber Kami Rita Sherpa, who scaled Everest for a record 32nd time earlier this month, returned to the capital Kathmandu on Friday, where he expressed concern about the experience of some climbers.

Pictures posted by climbers show a long line of people climbing up fixed ropes, queueing in the icy, low-oxygen high-altitude zones.

"The expedition this time felt a bit crowded," said Kami Rita Sherpa, dubbed the "Everest Man".

"The government should regulate this a bit... They should let in only climbers of quality -- there should be a limit," he told AFP.

- Records tumble -

On Thursday, a record number of climbers reached the 8,849-metre (29,032-foot) Himalayan peak from the Nepali side, according to tourism officials, who gave a preliminary total of 275 pending final confirmation.

The peak can be tackled from both Nepal and the northern face in Tibet, but Chinese authorities have closed the latter route this year.

The Guinness Book of World Records lists the highest number to climb Everest in a single day as 354, in May 2019.

Nepali tourism officials said the final number will be tallied after the climbs are verified, which require photographs and statements from the climber's expedition company and guides.

Among the successful climbers on Friday was British guide Kenton Cool, who reached the top for the 20th time -- extending his own record for the most ascents of the world's highest peak by a non-Nepali.

The high number of climbers has rekindled concerns about overcrowding on the mountain -- especially if poor weather shortens the climbing window.

The country has issued a record 492 Everest permits for foreigners this season, with a city of tents set up at the foot of the mountain for climbers and support staff.

Approximately 600 people -- including guides -- have summited Everest since the start of this year's spring climbing season in April.

British climber summits Everest for record 20th time

British climber Kenton Cool reached the top of Mount Everest for the 20th time Friday, extending his own record for the most ascents of the world's highest peak by a non-Nepali.

More than 600 climbers have reached the peak since the spring season summits kicked off this month, taking advantage of a brief spell of good weather and typically calmer winds.

"It was reported that he summited Mt Everest today early morning," Khim Lal Gautam, a government official at the base camp, told AFP.

Mountain guide Cool, 52, first climbed Everest in 2004 and has since had an expedition almost every year, taking clients up the 8,849-metre (29,032-foot) peak.

His 15th summit in 2021 tied him with American Dave Hahn for the most ascents by a non-Nepali climber, and his effort the following year gave him a solo title.

Cool was once told he would not be able to walk unaided again after a rock-climbing accident in 1996 that broke both his heel bones.

He told AFP in a 2022 interview after his 16th ascent that his Everest record was "not that amazing" in the context of achievements by Nepali climbers.

At least seven Nepali climbers have more than 20 summits under their belt.

"I'm really surprised by the interest... considering that so many of the Sherpas have so many more ascents," he said then.

Nepali climber Kami Rita Sherpa, 56, dubbed the "Everest Man", broke his own world record with a 32nd summit of Everest on Sunday.

Lhakpa Sherpa, 52, also broke her own women's record with her 11th summit the same day.

Nepal has issued a record 492 permits to mountaineers this season and a city of tents hosting foreign climbers and support staff has been set up at the foot of Everest.

The high numbers have rekindled concerns about overcrowding on the mountain, especially if poor weather shortens the climbing window.

On Wednesday, an estimated 275 people reached the summit in a record busiest day on the southern face of the peak.

Three Nepali climbers involved in Everest expeditions have died so far this season.

Nepal is home to eight of the world's 10 highest peaks and welcomes hundreds of adventurers each spring.

A climbing boom has made mountaineering a lucrative business since Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa made the first ascent in 1953.