Milan Men's Fashion Week longs for a bright winter
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Comforting fabrics, bright colours, winter shorts and uninhibited movement are all on show at Milan Men's Fashion Week, whose collections for autumn-winter 2021 have been kept behind closed doors this year by Covid-19.
With the Italian fashion capital again under lockdown and its luxury stores closed, designers couldn't help but nod to the new normal of interactions at a distance. One model lifted a telephone receiver in Ermenegildo Zegna's video presentation, while Silvia Fendi announced herself with "Hello, it's Silvia calling" in a voiceover to her own catwalk show. For Tod's, Italian actor Lorenzo Zurzolo left an answerphone message recounting a week spent alone in an isolated villa.
There were signs everywhere of cosy, comfortable indoor-wear leaving its mark on outdoor styles, with both Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons layering up looks over long-johns. Fendi offered swaddling, belted coats resembling dressing gowns over warm trousers, all in materials promising soft relaxation as much as the adventurous high life. Shawl collars and enveloping dressing-gown styles were also on show at Zegna, while even windbreaker brand K-Way blurred lines between indoor and outdoor wear.
Shorts with gloves
Fashion houses are hoping men will show some leg next winter, with Fendi offering colourful quilted shorts and K-way focusing attention on its trademark yellow, orange and blue zip. Whimsically daring the cold to do its worst below the belt, designers covered up elsewhere to compensate. MGSM paired its bermudas with ski gloves while ETRO topped them with a jacket more suited to the slopes. Looking to adapt to an era when anything could happen, Fendi, K-Way and Prada all showed off reversible coats.
Colours and light
Bright colours are a must for next winter, with Etro putting golden, sunny shades to the fore while Prada turned to jackets blaring fuchsia, red or violet and short coats in pink and ice blue. Meanwhile, some of Fendi's monochrome outfits in emerald green, blood red and saffron yellow are mischievously scribbled with fantastical doodles from British comedian and artist Noel Fielding.
Models were dancing throughout Men's Fashion Week as designers looked to liberate bodies long unable to strut their stuff. And the clothes were made to match -- flexible and allowing for movement, like the suits Zegna showed off on models celebrating together in an apartment, in a seeming wish for the future. Prada's supple knits were no barrier to dancing either, while Tod's slung an oversized coat over a model trying out a few steps.